Showing posts with label mountaineering. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mountaineering. Show all posts

12/31/2011

Everest: Beyond the Limit (2006) Review

Everest: Beyond the Limit (2006)
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Please note that this review contains spoilers. Don't read if you don't want to know the ending.
First off, let me say that if you're looking for a series that covers an Everest expedition with careful attention to detail, this is the series for you. Over the course of six episodes, we get to know the individual climbers pretty well. We learn their motivations, their fears, their hopes and the risks they are taking by climbing this mountain. We watch them suffer from exhaustion, oxygen deprivation, frostbite and other serious ailments. By the end of the series, you've come to care about these climbers and you feel you have a vested interest in the success of their summit bids.
What's even more noteworthy is the exceptional job done by the photojournalists who shot the climb -- some of whom were sherpas. Using special cameras attached to their headgear (humorously nicknamed "sherpacams" by the production team), the climbers were able to continuously shoot their dangerous trek from the Death Zone to the summit. As someone who has seen a lot of documentaries of Everest, this is some of the most breathtaking footage ever shot of that mountain.
From the production angle, this documentary gets top marks. Kudos to the Discovery Channel for placing this in our hands.
So why is one star deducted?
It should be noted that this documentary was shot during the 2006 climbing season -- one of the deadliest seasons on record, rivaled only by the 1996 climbing season recounted in John Krakauer's book "Into Thin Air".
If memory serves, 11 people died in 2006. One of them is David Sharp, a solo climber who collapsed in the Death Zone. Members of the Discovery Channel's expedition encountered the dying Sharp while making their way down from their summit attempts (there is actually some dispute as to whether they also encountered him on the way up).
To their credit, some of the climbers (like Lebanese climber Max Chaya) attempted to help Sharp. But ultimately Russell Brice -- the expedition's guide who stayed below at Advanced Base Camp -- ordered them to leave Sharp to his death. All of this is covered in detail in the final episode, as it happens -- even to the extent of including Chaya's weeping transmissions as he has to leave the climber to die.
Brice's logic is simple: he doesn't want to risk the lives of his own clients (who are already frostbitten and on the verge of exhaustion) to save the (at the time) unknown climber.
In retrospect, he was probably right.
All the same, when it's all said and done, I can't decide if I like Brice or not. That incident causes you to see the trek to Everest in much different light. Is it really worth it? It would be one thing if you were climbing for the purposes of exploration and discovery...if the trek had never been done before and you were hoping to learn something new. (Like the first lunar landing or a manned mission to Mars.) But why are these guys going? To fly a flag and get their picture taken? Bravado? Vanity?
Leaving Sharp was a tough moral decision...one that's hard to reconcile. Until I can do that, I'm docking one star.
Oh...and one quick note to the producers: there's no such word as "disorientated". Other than that, it's an excellent documentary.


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Experience Everest as it's never been before in this harrowing trek to touch the roof of the world. With unusually severe weather and heartbreaking circumstances, this expedition up the world's tallest peak becomes fraught with unexpected perils, leading to an emotional journey full of fear, hardship, exhaustion, disappointment and unforgettable triumphs. Boasting a crew of climbers each with something to prove, this expedition includes the first-ever double amputee to aim for the summit, an asthmatic climber ascending without bottled oxygen and a motorcyclist embracing life once again after a near-fatal traffic accident. Stunningly captured with high-definition cameras, each episode of this special DVD edition includes additional footage not seen in the original broadcast, plus behind-the-scenes moments you won't want to miss! Featuring: Summit Dreams: At Everest Base Camp, newly arrived climbers struggle to acclimate to the Himalayas' extreme altitude. A cameraman collapses with intense stomach pains and is rushed down the mountain. The Gatekeeper: After they learn of a Sherpa's death from altitude sickness, expedition members struggle to prepare themselves for a climb that will be the ultimate test of their mental and physical capabilities. To the Summit: The expedition is divided into two teams for the five-day summit assault. The expedition leader warns the group that he will withdraw the Sherpas if any of the climbers disobey his rules. Into the Death Zone: The expedition is trapped in a high-altitude camp by unexpectedly high winds and is further delayed by a human traffic jam when slower climbers are encountered. Mutiny on the Mountain: Climbers must deal with one of the coldest days ever remembered on the mountain and get caught in another group's descent lines.The Final Cost: With the summit just 350 feet above them, struggling climbers, dangerously weak from serious frostbite and insufficient oxygen, are fiercely determined to reach Everest's pinnacle.

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8/25/2011

Everest: Season 2 (2007) Review

Everest: Season 2 (2007)
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Don't hesitate on this one! Grab it! The second season PLUS what in my opinion is an equally important bonus area of discussion [all visual material] including various of the series participants and extra input from those who need no introduction to their high altitude climbing credentials and mountaineering achievements. So too, in the bonus material, the hard questions [read: TV documentary criticisms] of the documentary on Everest are not avoided nor in any way sugar-coated. You're looking at approximately 7 hours of visual material here between the TV episodes and the added bonus discussion material consisting of 4 extended episodes entitled, "Everest: After the Climb" . You absolutely can't beat it for under $15.00! This was the price [$14.97] when I did the review.
I'll lay my cards on the table and as I always do especially if commenting on films [documentary or fiction!] or books that deal with the climbing and/or mountaineering community. I'm tired of seeing Russell Brice used as a sort of handy and proverbial punching bag and especially by, inter alia, various and sundry types who wouldn't know a belay from a ballet or whose knowledge of high altitude climbing and its 'realities' wholly escapes them. Still others take the view that Brice is somehow the perceived "culprit" and allegedly 'responsible' [!?] for the David Sharp matter [2006] as if Russell had some hidden magic wand and could simply wave it around a few times and, voila, some 20 Sherpas could be made to suddenly materialize from his tent to initiate high altitude rescues of virtually anyone in trouble and regardless of altitude issues or weather considerations.
The bonus material addresses various of these considerations. But it also addresses the 'realities' of high altitude climbing in general. For example, the question is put on the table in virtually any mountain rescue attempt by the narrator: Does it come down to a matter of "who should be or shouldn't be rescued" and Brice responds, rightly so in my opinion, that it has nothing to do with who 'should' or 'shouldn't be' rescued issues but rather a more realistic appraisal of "who CAN be rescued" and whether it is 'possible' and logistically feasible to do it! You don't produce the resources for a mountain rescue out of nothing! Or 'thin air', as it were. And the weather at hand is a significant factor not to mention the perils of the higher one climbs or the intricacies/complexities of the route. Naturally, there are always the exceptions to the rule who almost miraculously are saved but then these exceptions become the benchmarks for those who know nothing about high altitude climbing making with, "See! 'X' and 'Y' were saved! Why not 'Z' ?" It's simply not that easy! Look at the cumulative mountaineering experience of both Rob Hall and Scott Fischer [1996] but factors were present on the mountain that day which precluded their rescue. Folks can't relate that 'feet/meters' can be like 'miles/kilometers' in places like Everest and K2 [et al] -- that's something they just can't comprehend not to mention navigation issues during a white-out or numbing cold 'despite' protective and modern insulation gear.
In any event, I think the visual discussion material following the second season episodes is well worth the listen! And the realities of high altitude mountaineering. We're also in the age of so-termed "adventure tourism" with a literal proliferation of various world-wide commercial entities offering to take clients to "you name it" but it's also true, IMO, that some of these clients have no business being at places like Everest or K2 where their prior climbing experience is virtually negligible not to mention altitude issues where some actually believe that the use of bottled oxygen brings them to 'sea level' breathing or that fixed ropes right to the summit itself 'assures a summit' --- NOTHING is 'assured' since it can't be! And it's not 'just' the weather to force one back, it's a whole gammut of factors than can go wrong and at 'any' level on the mountain much less over 26,000 feet. Client temperament(s) notwithstanding.
It seems to me that certain websites have almost dedicated themselves to Russell Brice bashing with a veritable laundry list litany of J'accuse mongering so that if Russell can't pull off ad hoc rescue miracles while pulling rescuers from his derriere, as it were, or indeed take 'anyone' to the summit and back no matter how they are faltering or showing their lack of experience and/or physical stamina limitations on the trial runs, ahh, then he's the proverbial and alleged "don't give a ****" bad guy! Sherpas and guides are NOT there to die for the aspirations of the client especially, I'll add at once, for the client who despite literal hours of cajoling and pleading to turn back, proceed forward and perhaps expect and damn the consequences to both themselves and others -- or to be hand-held or short-roped to their dream. In the series, various 'did' finally listen to reason and turned back but the reality is that some do not despite the best efforts of others [including climbing partners or expedition leaders in some scenarios] to reason with them. And some of them are still up there. Or indeed, miraculously rescued 'by' the climbing community ... at least when feasible and possible to do so.
Doc Tony




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Item Name: Everest: Season 2; Studio:Discovery Channel

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